Border Lakes - Chris Williams

Photo courtesy trip organizer Chris Williams


Course Schedule

Forests of the Far North - Exploring the Border Lakes

July 14-21, 2012: Ely, Minnesota


"In the saving of places of natural beauty and wildness we are waging a battle for man's spirit." ~Sigurd F. Olson





Day 1 - Saturday, July 14
 

2:00 pm Registration and Check-in at Smitty's on Snowbank.

The informal woodsy ambiance of the North Woods glows in Smitty’s main lodge. Constructed of logs and knotty pine interior, the rustic, homey atmosphere will serve as perfect backdrop to the week’s events. Crystal clear Snowbank Lake surrounds the resort on its peninsula with views of Snowbank Bay from the dining room and of Rice Island Bay from the suite and cabin.

3:00 pm Introductions. Meet your colleagues.

6:30 pm  Dinner at the main lodge.

7:45 pm The Great North Woods. An introduction to the natural history and ecology of the North Woods and the Boundary Waters region by course organizer Chris Williams.


Day 2 - Sunday, July 15

7:00 - 9:00 am Breakfast in the main lodge at your leisure. Coffee is served each morning beginning at 6:00 am.

9:30 am The North Country Trees, presented by course organizers Nancy Stranahan and Chris Williams.

We will begin to learn of the temperate forest's embodiment at its northern fringe - in its transition zone with the boreal forest. The morning will focus on the dominant trees of both biomes, their ecology and natural history, and their corresponding habitats and inter-relationships. Participants will learn to recognize tree species by crown, fragrance, color & texture, and leaves & needles. Learning the trees is the first step to recognizing the habitat and revealing the biography of a place.

12:30 pm Enjoy a packed lunch in the field. 

North Woods Scenery - Chris Williams

North Country Trees - Photo Courtesy Chris Williams

1:30 pm North Country Eco-systems. 

Snowbank Lake lies at the very edge of true wilderness. It is cradled in the ancient, complex, and diverse outcroppings of volcanic rock that once formed the roots of a volcanic mountain chain. As bedrock complexities translate into vegetative diversity, there is a plethora of communities here to discover, as this afternoon hike led by a prominent local naturalist, Chuck Wick, will reveal. Chuck will continue the morning's focus on trees and shrubs of the North Woods and test the newly found skills we learned in the morning.

6:30 pm Dinner at the main lodge.

7:45 pm Journaling for Art and Science.

As we fill our minds with new knowledge, and our memories with rich outdoor experiences, a healthy balance between tangible knowledge and inspired art can be found between the pages of a journal.

Joining us for the evening will be Consie Powell, a North Woods artist, illustrator, and author. The journals that Consie keeps serve as inspiration for her numerous books and prints. This fine naturalist will lead us into the art of improving our observation skills and anchoring our memories through journaling. Blank hardbound journals will be provided to every participant for your personal notes, sketches, and essays.


Day 3 - Monday, July 16
 

Loon in the Mist - Jean Vertefuille

Loon in the Mist - Photo courtesy Jean Vertifueille.

6:30 am Bird Walk on Snowbank Lake with Bill Tefft, from Vermilion Community College and Appalachian Forest School Director, Nancy Stranahan.

You will learn to recognize by song and sight some of the many species occurring in the northern forests. Bald eagles and loons will most definitely add to the enjoyment of passerine species as we hear and see these signature birds of the North Woods. We will give special attention to the neotropical warblers that breed only in the North Country and only show themselves briefly through the Midwest in the spring and fall during the tides of migration, and year-around species found only in the boreal zones. And, remember, though we are unlikely to spot them this time of the year, the north country is the breeding ground of such raptors as great gray and northern hawk owls!

Although "simple" northern ecosystems are often erroneously perceived as being low in diversity, an outstanding 155 species of breeding birds has been listed for Superior National Forest, one of the highest for any forest in the country.

Bill Tefft's expertise is well known in Ely where ‘Birding with Bill’ is a cherished summer morning activity, while readers of the newspaper enjoy his weekly articles about birds and nature. Nancy is skilled in helping people learn new bird songs through a combination of encouragement and patient repetition, and will be carrying this role throughout the course, and beyond "official" bird walk.

Lichens - Joe Walewski

Lichens - Courtesy Joe Walewski.

7:00 - 9:00 am Breakfast in the main lodge at your leisure. Coffee is served each morning beginning at 6:00 am.

9:30 am Taking a Lich'en to the Flora and Fauna of the North Woods.

After our immersion yesterday in discovering the taller and more noticeable members of the North Woods, today we delve into the natural history of the many plants and animals supported by the larger ecosystem. We will be spending the day in the field with naturalists Bill Tefft, Dr. Roger Powell, Larry Weber, and Joe Walewski looking for the unique, the minute, and the grand.

Special focus will be on the mammals of the region including black bear and gray wolf, the diverse population of weasels and their relatives, such as otter and mink, the spiders of the North Woods, and floristic specialties such as the incredible diverse assemblage of lichens that seem to cover tree, rock, and forest floor.

6:30 pm  Dinner at the main lodge. Volunteers will share from their journals during dessert.

7:45  pm The Vanishing Boreal Forest and its Dance with the Temperate - A World View by Nancy Stranahan.

Author Daniel Gawthrop described the boreal forest, as the world's Vanishing Halo, and the planet's northern lungs. Although the North Woods seems safely eternal, indefatigable, and endless in northern hemisphere myth and literature, in reality the biome is in extreme peril. Its relatively low population is both its saving grace, and its curse; since preservation is directly linked to ownership and concern, and ownership and concern is linked to knowledge and intimacy.

The North Woods needs devoted advocates from citizens throughout the world. Nancy will take us on a world tour of the boreal forest in the Northern Hemisphere, teaching the commonalities between the forest centers, and the biome's conservation challenges.


Day 4 - Tuesday, July 17

North Woods Geology - Chris Williams

Example of Northern Geology - Courtesy Chris Williams.

7:00 - 9:00 am Breakfast in the main lodge at your leisure. Coffee is served each morning beginning at 6:00 am.

9:30 am Ancient Geology of the Canadian Shield. 

A primordial portion of the Earth’s 4.5 billion years of history is recorded in rocks exposed at the surface in this region, first formed over 2 billion years ago. Volcanoes, lava eruptions in ancient seas, mountain building: it is all here to be interpreted by the experienced eye. Study of the geology of the ancient interior of the North American continent (known as a craton, and in this general region including the Canadian Shield) gives students fascinating glimpses into primordial earth-shaping processes. 

Today, we will cross Snowbank Lake by boat and hike across ledges of ancient magma and lava, during which we will step several billion years back in history on a land sculpted by eons of ice, fire and water. At trail's end we will eat our packed lunch against the world-class backdrop of Snowbank Lake, and do some sit-down sessions to study the primary rock types resulting from volcanic geology out in the field.

2:00 pm Pristine Waters.

The 1-million acre Boundary Waters Canoe Area Wilderness, in which we will spend the day, is embedded in the 3-million acre Superior National Forest. More than 445,000 acres, or 695 square miles, of this area is surface water. There are more than 2,000 lakes that are at least 10 acres in size while streams encompass 1,300 miles of cold water and 950 miles of warm water habitat. This is pure, clean, cold and diverse habitat renowned for its fish -- all seasons of the year. As we traverse the lake back to the lodge, we will be studying the lake itself with a premier North Country fishing guide and ecologist.

6:30 pm  Dinner at the main lodge. Volunteers will share from their journals during dessert.

7:45 pm Artists’ Gathering.

A look at art as a means to capture and project the many moods and faces of the natural world. This program will feature an incredible gathering of talent who will lead participants on a contemplative and aesthetic study of the North Woods through the work produced by their skilled hands and hearts.

Participating artists include: Ann Santo, oils; Beckie Prange, creator of wood cut nature prints; Polly Carlson-Voiles, author/illustrator; Consie Powell, author/illustrator and journaling expert; and Heidi Pinkerton, nature and wildlife photographer. 


Day 5 - Wednesday, July 18

6:30 am Songs of the North Woods. This morning will provide the opportunity to enjoy the peace of an early morning lakeshore while practicing recognizing the songs of the birds we have been working on learning.

7:00 - 9:00 am Breakfast in the main lodge at your leisure. Coffee is served each morning beginning at 6:00 am.

White Faced Meadowhawk - John Howard

White-faced Meadowhawk - Copyright John Howard.

10:00 am Bogs, Glacial Geology, and a Search for Dragons. 

While the bedrock geology is basic to understanding a region's natural history, the North reveals a more recent chapter of geologic activity in the form of continental glaciers. Today we will explore relics of the Pleistocene Ice Age in the form of bogs - quintessential emblems of the Far North. These cold, acidic environs host rare, unusual, and beautiful plants, all adapted to the rigors of bog conditions. 

We will see numerous blooming pitcher plants enhanced by other bog loving plants such as sundew, sphagnum moss, Labrador tea, and black spruce. We will visit open mats as well as black spruce assemblages. A contrast will be offered in a white cedar wetland. These are very special places - be prepared to tread carefully.

Joining us will be Kurt Mead, leading dragonfly expert and author of Dragonflies of the North Woods, and Norma Malinowski, bog and fen expert and former Assistant District Ranger for Recreation for the Superior National Forest. 

A North Woods bog mat or forest opening can sometimes be literally dazzling with the flit of newly minted dragonfly wings recently emerged in the summer sunshine. Over 80 species of dragonflies and damselflies have been reported from the Ely area, which includes nearly 25% of the Odonate species known from all of North America. Altogether, the  North Woods region claims nearly half of all the continent’s species of Odonates (including dragonflies and darners!) These ‘winged dragons’ have eyes comprised of 30,000 lenses, and the flying creatures never fail to amaze us with their size, ferocity, and gem-like colorations.

Kurt will share tips on how to begin to differentiate this region's many dragonfly species, with skills that can be fruitfully applied to any location in North America.

6:30 pm  Dinner at the main lodge.

7:45 pm Musical Performance by Pat and Donna Surface of Spiritwood Music.

The evening's performance features folk music dedicated to reflecting and preserving the beauty of Earth through song, sign, and acoustic guitar. Pat and Donna Surface are amazing entertainers. They exude an unforgettable presence, and invest huge amounts of heart into their performances. Because Pat and Donna are extremely popular in this region, their time with us tonight is a truly a gift from them to us, arising out of their great love for the North Woods and their commitment to supporting its appreciation and education.
 

Day 6 - Thursday, July 19  

7:00 - 9:00 am Breakfast in the main lodge at your leisure. Coffee is served each morning beginning at 6:00 am.

Listening Point

Courtesy the Listening Point Foundatio
n.

9:00 am Listening Point - the legacy of Sigurd Olson. 

This morning we will visit the cabin at Listening Point on Burntside Lake, the wilderness retreat of beloved North Woods author, Sigurd Olson; one of the greatest environmentalists of the twentieth century. In addition to authoring nine books during his lifetime, frequently on best seller lists, he served as President of both the Wilderness Society and the National Parks Association, and was honored by the Sierra Club and the National Wildlife Federations for his distinguished contributions to conservation.

This wilderness property is on the National Register of Historic Places. There will be quiet time in this special place to journal and experience North Country magic, and also explore the natural history of this scenic spot. By this time, many of the plants will be familiar to you, but Listening Point's "arrangement" of those plants is exceptionally and singularly scenic.

On this day’s journey, we will be including a visit to Wintergreen Dogsled Lodge. Owner Paul Schurke’s North Pole and Arctic Circle journeys are the stuff of legend, featured in numerous articles and documentaries. We will meet Paul's 80+ Inuit dogs, and hear the chronicling of Arctic adventures, as well as the impact of a rapidly changing climate upon the delicate North Woods.

Artifact - courtesy of USDA Superior National Forest

Biface recovered from Knife Lake Quarry in the BWCAW - Photo courtesy of USDA Superior National Forest.

Afternoon. Time to Relax!! 

We have no official activities scheduled for this quiet afternoon. Here is some precious free time in the North Woods during which you can follow where your heart leads into the border lake country. However, if you would like to join some of us on an informal group paddle, several canoes are available for rent at the lodge.

6:30 pm  Dinner at the main lodge.

7:45 pm Peoples of the Border Lakes.

New research on Knife Lake on the Canadian border in the BWCAW is indicating that people may have been present in the area as early as 11,000 years ago - this is several thousand years earlier than it was previously thought. We will explore the human story of the Border Lakes region, from the native Ojibwe peoples to the European influx of voyageurs.

Lee Johnson - courtesy of USDA Superior National Forest

Lee Johnson - Courtesy of USDA Superior National Forest.

Leading us in this discovery will be Lee Johnson, Forest Archaeologist for Superior National Forest.



Day 7 - Friday, July 20

7:00 - 9:00 am Breakfast in the main lodge at your leisure. Coffee is served each morning beginning at 6:00 am.

10:00 am The North Woods and the Falling of a Wilderness Fortress. 

Today we will take leisurely hikes in exploration of a variety of ecosystems found along the trails near Snowbank Lake. At some point during the day we will following part of the historic Kekekabic Trail (from the Ojibwe "Keke-quabic" which means "hawk's nest on the rocks) that traverses the heart of the Boundary Waters Canoe Area Wilderness. 

This last day of hiking will be an opportunity to hone skills learned this week and immerse yourself one more time in this timeless forest. Right after lunch, sitting down and surrounded by a cathedral of northern evergreens, Nancy Stranahan will share more of the cultural and environmental history of the area, from the earliest known North American natives, to the last French explorers and documenters of a fading wilderness.

Misty North Woods - Chris Williams

Misty North Woods - Courtesy Chris Williams.

6:00 pm Music, Poetry & Art from the North Woods.

Just before dinner, Nancy and Chris will share some selections of the inspiring art that has arisen out of the spirit of this North. On this last day, we will join in a group paddle either before or after dinner as weather and mood dictates. Canoes will be available for both time slots if you choose to go out twice. An evening campfire will be a time to share story and song.

6:30 pm  Dinner at the main lodge.
 

Day 8 - Saturday, July 21

7:00 - 9:00 am Breakfast in the main lodge at your leisure. Coffee is served each morning beginning at 6:00 am.

9:00 am Farewell and Quiz. After breakfast we will join in our formal farewell, to each other and the Great North Woods. A fun and educational quiz will be given to all participants to help review everything we learned during the week, as a way of helping to review the week.

Next: Course Details & Tuition